Chiclayo Trainin and it aint Rainin

                I’ve now been in site for 6 months, in Peru for close to 9.  If you were to look at my accomplishments and my level of Spanish, I can’t say you’d be impressed.  This time not only marks the end of the first quarter of my service, and near a third of my total time here, but it also marks the beginning of seriously pursuing the projects I hope to accomplish. 

I just came back from PDM/IST in Chiclayo.  This is the last training as well as the last time all of WATSAN will be together until the year mark and med checks.  As always seeing everyone was great, and hearing about the work done so far always astounds me.  The group I am a part of has already made some great headway in terms of projects.  In some cases cocinas have been built, others have identified areas of need and potential projects that could really make large changes, still others have continued projects started by the previous volunteer. 

In PDM we learned to design complete projects.  To this we were to bring a community counterpart who had been working with us.  I had planned to bring the architect in my Muni, Rolando, but at the last minute and after getting all the necessary paperwork done, he told me was too busy.  They gave me the number of a regidore, Don Juan, who could come and help.  This didn’t work out too well.  I don’t think Don Juan understood exactly what we were trying to do, and in those cases hours of powerpoints and presentations can be excruciatingly boring.  It was helpful learning about projects, but also helpful to learn more about what to look for in a good counterpart.

This training ended Saturday and we had a much needed day off Sunday.  So Saturday we put on our cleanest clothes, none of which were very clean, and headed out to see what Chiclayo had to offer us.  We met up with Kim Ayers, she was in Bonnycastle with me first year and we hung out some throughout the rest of college, and some of the other Chiclayo volunteers.  We went out for pizza and I had my first calzone since saying goodbye to Vito’s and the greater Lovingston area, it was a dream come true and really served to whet my appetite for all the foods I will eat when I go back to the Old Home Place. After this we had some beers and went out to a very busy club, this was the point where Chiclayo took more from us than we did from her.

As soon as we arrived to the club, I realized how packed it was.  The line outside was pretty long, and once inside (gringos get to cut in most places, not exactly fair and equal but just the way it is) there were even more people.  We filed through the crowd to get to some tables.  As we were walking I felt my wallet move in my pocket, my hand immediately went for it and I felt the strange feeling of someone else’s hand in my pocket.  I immediately grabbed the guys arm, shocked at the audacity, and checked for my stuff.  Everything was there so I let him go.  I should have taken him to a guard, but to be honest I was so surprised that the only thought I had was to make sure I had all my stuff.  This really shook me up, shattering the illusion of normal that I had allowed myself to fall into here, but served to put me on guard which is always necessary, especially so in the larger cities.  Over the course of the evening volunteers had their phones stolen and one lost his wallet.  I count myself lucky to have caught the guy, losing my wallet would have meant losing my I.D., American card, and Peruvian card, not to mention some pretty witty fortunes I have come across over the years.

We used Sunday to rest and chatter about the evening, and began with a new training Monday.  This training was our In Service Training and we learned more about potential projects such as viviendas saludables, which I will cover more in a later post, as well as the presupuesto participativo which is the participatory budget in Peru.  I picked up a lot from this training and got a much clearer idea of the direction I want to head in during the next few months.  This also served as the first training where I wasn’t nervous about my Spanish level.  Not to say I am a pro, but it’s no longer a point of worry, which is a big relief, I just hope it doesn’t mean I’ve reached a low on the gaf level, unsure if Porterfield would be proud of that or disappointed. Dan, thoughts?

The volunteers all went out for a final dinner; I had steak, that’s right, steak.  It seemed a little like heaven and little like home, but maybe home is heaven, if so that statement would be redundant.  Billy boy Jensen and I stayed about late into the night having those deep conversations that only come about after a few beers.  We talked with the Liberatore’s about religion, about Will’s coming down to earth, and about the next couple of months.  It was an appropriate send off. 

The week was good overall, but it’s come to the point that I really notice being out of site after a week or so.  Arriving back was a great feeling and the first opportunity to let my guard down and relax.  I was happy to see my family here and to get going on the projects I’ve been pursuing.  The rains seemed to have passed, more or less, in Faique and that makes it all the easier to be here.  My naps aren’t as deep without the enveloping static from the rain, but that’s a small price to pay for dry clothes and no drips.

On another food note, one night we went out and had anticuchos, heart on a stick, and I have to say that they were some of the best food I’ve eaten here, not to mention gaining all the power that comes from eating the heart of another animal, or something like that.

Ponce de León, I think we found it, a little further south than you thought.

Often times I find myself writing about the major events that happen to me here, but that leaves a lot of my life here shrouded in the mysteries of monotony and routine, meetings and waiting, pressure and time (Shawshank again).  I tell you about the trainings where I see my friends, the vacations I get to enjoy, and the thoughts that dawn on me when I’m alone with my thoughts, but today I will tell you about a day, a long day, and through that, hopefully, let you know a little bit more about my life here

My day began a bit earlier than usual and much earlier than I would prefer.  Around 7 a.m. I was awoken by a knock at my door from the engineer.  Today we were to head 4 km out and up to Sanchez Cerro, a caserio of about 25 houses, for a meeting about a new water system and a latrines project.  Sanchez Cerro is difficult to get to, with winding rock paths through the forest and switchback ascents straight up the mountain, because of this some of the houses there are without the basic necessities of water and electricity.  The municipality, with me helping, is going to build a new water system that brings potable water to all of Sanchez Cerro, seven of these houses will be receiving water in their house for the first time.  On top of this the municipality is building latrines for each house, which I have the enjoyable job of training the people on the usage and maintenance of said latrines. 

Around 8:30 we arrive to the caserio and begin our day in earnest.  The first step is to gather a group of the men to help us and have a quick breakfast.  Once this is done we head up, straight up, to find the intake for the new water system.  This involved finding two places, close to the top, where water is coming up from the ground and is uncontaminated by the animals and humans that live nearby.  As we search we pass houses and continue onward, we pass chacras and we move past beaten paths.  At one point while filing through the trees I realize, I am at the complete mercy of the people I’m with, if something happened they would be the ones to carry me down and if for someone reason they didn’t want me found, I wouldn’t be, but at no point did I feel worried.  If anything they seemed happy I was there, excited to have a tall gringo interested in their town and their water. 

After seemingly hours of hiking we found the first intake.  Seemed to me a good possibility that this was the fabled “Fountain of Youth”, the area seemed remote enough.  When we arrived we talked about the capacity, took some pictures, and the engineer took a drink, he didn’t seem any younger after but maybe it takes time to take effect.  I abstained from drinking to the dismay of all my companions.  I’m sure the water was clean, but worst case scenario, I’m a three hour hike from town.

We paused for a few more minutes and then continued up.  The going got tough and we lost a few men, but we continued on.  OK we actually didn’t lose anyone but you can’t fault me for adding a little drama to the scene.  We came across another possibility for the intake.  This option wasn’t quite as good as the other, there was evidence of cows around and the water was above ground for an extended area, but it seemed to meet their requirements despite my objections.  We took some more pictures, that’s me pointing there (great beard, I know), and set off back towards civilization.

On the descent we measured from the intakes to the houses, 20 meters at a time, taking GPS coordinates at each interval.  Needless to say this slowed the progress a bit and took us well off the beaten tracks.  At each house we would stop and explain what we were doing, get them to sign the informe, and find out where they wanted their latrine to go. 

I never felt very necessary to the process, everything we did could have been done without me slowing the group, but being a part of it was a great feeling.  Each person was excited about the project and the realization that it would actually happen.  Each family was so excited, in fact, that they gave us fruit.  These families with no running water, a hole in the ground for a bathroom and very little else were offering us what they had in appreciation.  This hospitality and graciousness of the people here often astounds me.  I have found that the people I work with will share what they have, whatever it may be, and will take pride in “compartir”ing.

We continued down through the forest, measuring and recording.  In some places we found fruit trees; grenadillas, cherimoya, platanos, limas, and at each place the guys would always give me fruit first.  Always looking out for me and generally making me feel very welcome.  Around 2 p.m. some women from the main part of the village showed up with lunch for the engineer and I, tamales, eggs, and rice.  We shared our lunches with the group and offered to pay but they were having none of that.

We continued working for a few more hours and then finally reached the last house.  At this we were offered some very strong liquor made of caña, just the pickup we needed for the long hike back to Faique.  On the way back we ran into funeral service, where again we had shots of cañaza and headed off.  Finally making it back around 5.  I can’t say I have yet been that exhausted in my time here, nor have I hiked that far in my life, but upon getting back I felt good. 

This was one of the first days where I really felt like I was doing my job here.  Instead of being frustrated at the pace of things here, we were out laying the ground work for a project that would bring clean water and latrines to families that needed them.  With all the meetings and run-arounds and municipal bureaucracy, things can get frustrating.  It’s easy to get down on yourself and what you’re doing, but days like this, days where I can see the help I can provide, the difference I can make, days like this make up for all the other days.  Well that and a couple shots of cañaza.

And the last picture is of Faique, where I live, and further to the valley heading to Piura.  Not the worst view I've come across.

The Darkness

So we’ve made it to May.  It’s hard to believe it’s May already, seems like not too long ago that I was looking forward to March.  I haven’t done a good job of updating everyone on the day to day life I lead here, so I will do my best to shed some light on that here.

I’ll begin with March.  March was a big month; it marked the end of the first three months in site, the ability to start taking vacations, and the first big training and opportunity to see everyone from WatSan.  The training took place in La Libertad, a department on the coast, two departments south of Piura.  The training took place over a week, at which time we presented our diagnostics, went over technical and organizational stuff, and got to get out and practice building latrines and cocina mejoradas.  The training went as trainings go; long, at times less than exciting, and full of powerpoints.  The best part of training was getting to see everyone.  In many ways it was like we never left one another, but the stories everyone had of site, the differences and similarities that everyone shared, was really interesting to hear. 

I will say that after being in site for three months, setting my own schedule, and seeing no powerpoints, days full of them were pretty difficult to sit through.  Each night, however, we got to sit around and talk.  We had been apart longer than we were together in training, but it’s difficult not to be close in a situation like this, and everyone picked up right where they left off.  Eben was still beautiful Eben, Goyo exhausted and amazed us with his stories and works, Raquel made sure everyone knew we are not as smart as we think, and Booby, well Booby did what Booby does, he’s an odd guy with many eccentricities but the dirt phobia tops the list.  At the end of the week we got to enjoy the beach for a bit before heading off to our respective sites.

I made my way back to site for a week or two before heading off again.  This time, the beginning of April, was the first real vacation.  The days here are Semana Santa, Holy Week, which coincide with Easter in the states.  Jonah, Booby, Hot Karl, and I made our way to Mancora, a tourist beach in the north of Piura.  The break was great; the company left something to be desired though.  We stayed at a hostel where English was the default language, and that was a bit of a shock.  I’ve become so used to speaking Spanish, or trying, that to assume someone speaks English has become a bit of a foreign concept.  It was also refreshing to speak the old native tongue, not to mention they had eggs and bacon, which I partook in a few times.  I also took my first dip in the Pacific, the Mexicans say it has no memory (guess which movie that quote comes from, Jonah?) and I hope it doesn’t, because an attempt at body surfing left Karl, Jonah, and I a little beaten and searching for the shore and a beer.

A few days in Mancora were enough and getting back to site was a relief.  Surprisingly Faique has become my home and I’m comfortable here.  The work started picking up, meetings and trips to caserios, which makes the days go by a little quicker, but also lifts the mood.  Took a trip to Piura with two community partners for a few days to learn about AIDS/HIV and how to put a condom on correctly, safe to say I have become a pro. 

That’s basically it for March and April.  The two months really flew by, but the rains were gracious enough to stick around.  I have come to accept them though, rain just means it’s probably time for a nap, and I have never been one to complain about taking a nap.  In the middle of this month I leave again for training and will be seeing all of the WatSan folks.  After I will have a few months in site to really get going on some projects.  The end of this month marks half a year in site, a quarter of my service.  My friend’s favorite quote says something along the lines of “days move slowly, but time passes quickly”, and that has never seemed truer than now.